Dolomites Rock Climbing

Dolomites Rock Climbing Itinerary

Given the abundance of climbs in the Dolomites, we can adjust the itinerary during our climbing week to the preferred challenge level of our clients and the weather. Following are some of the routes that we can choose from:

Val Gardena / Western Dolomites, Itinerary Options

Driving distance in minutes from our base in Wolkenstein (Selva)

Training/Toprope/Sport Climbing
Steinerne Stadt, bouldering and toprope, 12 min
Frea, Passo Gardena, single/multi-pitch sport climbs, 15 min
Traumpfeiler, single/multi-pitch sport climbs, 10 min

Easy and Moderate Multi-Pitch Climbs
Sella Tower, Chimney Routes, 5.5, 5 pitches, 15 min
Sella Tower, Trenker Route, 5.7, 5 pitches, 15 min
Sella Tower, Gluck Dihedral, 5.5, 3 pitches, 15 min
Sella Tower, Jahn Route, 5.5, 7 pitches, 15 min
Sella Towers Traverse, 5.6, 16 pitches, 15 min
Piz Ciavazes, Ramp Route, 5.6, 8 pitches, 20min
Grohmannspitze, Dibona South Face, 5.6, 17 pitches, 12 min
Grohmannspitze, Normal Route, 5.5 & scramble, long day
Five Fingers, Thumb Ridge and Traverse, 5.6, 12 pitches, 12 min
Langkofel, Normal Route, Scrambling and 5.5, long day, 12 min
Langkofel, North Ridge, 5.6, approx 40 pitches, 12 min
Langkofeleck, Ramp, 5.7, approx 35 pitches, 12 min
Masores, Pilastro della Chiesa, 5.6, 10 pitches, 15 min
Piz Pisciadu, Dillmair Route, 5.6, 5 pitches (can be combined)

Possibly with lodging in the Firenze / Regensburg Hut, 10 min
Great Fermeda, South East Ridge, 5.6, 10 pitches
Little Fermeda, Normal Route, 5.3 & scrambling, 7 pitches
Torre Firenze, Ridge, 5.4, 14 pitches

Moderate to Difficult Multi-Pitch Climbs
Sella Tower, Messner Route, 5.8, 8pitches, 15 min
Sella Tower, Fata Morgana, 5.9, 8 pitches, 15 min
Sella Tower, Kasnapoff, 12 pitches, 15 min
Sella Tower, Vinatzer, 5.8, 11 pitches, 15 min
Five Fingers, Diagonal Route, 5.7, 7 pitches, 12 min
Grohmannspitze, Harrer Route, 5.7, 15 pitches 12 min
Piz Ciavazes, Michelluzi, 5.8, 10 or 18 pitches, 20 min
Piz Chiavazes, Schubert, 5.9, 10 or 18 pitches
Piz Pordoi, Via Niagara, 5.9, 22 pitches, 22 min
Marmolada, Modern Times, 26 pitches, 5.10d, 40 min
Marmolada, Viantzer/Messner, 5.9, 24 pitches, 40 min
Ciampac, Adang Dihedral, 5.7 – 5.8, 12 pitches, 20 min

Cortina D’Ampezzo / Eastern Dolomites, Itinerary Options

Driving distance from our base in Cortina is between 10 and 30 minutes

Training/Toprope/Sport Climbing
Cinque Torri: Abundance of single and up to four-pitch climbs, lots of fixed anchors, ideal for courses of all levels, 10-minute approach from the parking lot, exceptional views.

Fonda Savio Hut, Cadini Range. Several training areas 5 to 15 minutes from the hut

Easy and Moderate Multi-Pitch Climbs
Hexenstein, South Ridge, 5.5 – 5.6, 7 pitches
Falzarego Towers, South Ridges, 5.5 – 5.6, 11 pitches
Cima di Bois, South Face, 5.6, 10 pitches
Cinque Torri, Via delle Guide, 5.5 and 5.6, 4 pitches
Tofana, Dibona, 5.6 and 5.7, 26 pitches
Averau, Alvera, 5.6, 8 pitches
Tofana, First Piller, 5.7, 11 pitches
Punta Fiames, Normal Route, 5.6, 12 pitches
Cima Grande, Normal Route, 5.4 and 5.5, long day
Cima Piccola, Normal Route, 5.6, 8 pitches
Cima Preuss, Preuss Chimney, 5.7, 6 pitches
Paternkofel, South Ridge, 5.5, 6 pitches

Possibly with lodging in the Fonda Savio Hut:
Torre Wundt, Via Mazorana, 5.6, 7 pitches
Pilastro del Rifugio, Tricolore, 5.7, 6 pitches
Il Corro, 5.5, 7 pitches

Moderate to Difficult Multi-Pitch Climbs
Cinque Torri, Myriam, 5.8, 5 pitches
Cinque Torri, Finlandia, 5.10b, 3 pitches
Tofana, Pilastro, 5.11a, 12 pitches
Tofana, Pilastro Edge, 5.9, 11 pitches
Punta Fiames, Jori, 5.8, 12 pitches
Cima Grande, Comici, 5.10c or 5.8/A0, 15 pitches
Cima Piccola, Yellow Edge, 5.8, 9 pitches
Cima Grande, Dibona, 5.7, 18 pitches

*North American Climbing Grades

Climbing Course & Camp Curriculum

Our beginners’ course will have you following moderate routes and leading sport climbs. You will learn everything you need to know about climbing multi-pitch routes safely and efficiently. Our advanced level courses will get you leading moderate routes and establishing anchors using traditional gear.

On our climbing camps, the guide acts more like a coach: helping to choose the best route for a given day and skill level of the participants; sharing tips on route-finding, leading, and belaying; and accompanying the climbers to ensure a safe, fun, and successful day. Having a guide in your group assures optimal use of your vacation time and peace of mind should the going get rough.

For our courses, we strongly believe in the “Learning by Doing” concept. Expect lots of climbing!

Rock Climbing Beginners’ Course

• Follow moderate and lead easy bolted multi-pitch climbs, lead (or mock-lead) bolted sport climbs
• Knots, rock climbing technique, belay technique, communication, rappelling, cleaning anchors, introduction to the placement of removable climbing protection (i.e. nuts and cams), hazard evaluation, and risk management

Rock Climbing Advanced Course

• Lead moderate multi-pitch climbs on gear safely and efficiently, lead sport climbs
• Review of beginner’s course contents plus: advanced climbing technique, placement of removable protection (i.e. cams and nuts), building safe belay stations/anchors, basic self-rescue techniques, route selection, and trip planning

Rock Climbing Camp

• A combination of any of the above contents, advancing at a rate in accordance with your personal skill level and preferences

The Climbing Camps are Private Courses requiring a minimum commitment of 5 days and 2 – 6 climbers.

Trips can depart any day between the last week of May and Mid-September.

Pricing and inclusions

Please inquire for a custom trip package and pricing based on your group size, ability level, number of guided climbing days and inclusions (lodging, meal plan, transportation, etc).

Transportation

Our Cortina Dolomites trips begin in Cortina D’Ampezzo and can be most easily reached from the Venice Airport.

Public Transport: Most popular is the Cortina Express Bus which leaves at a variety of times daily in high season from Mid-June until Mid-September and then fewer services in the shoulder season starting mid-September.
Departures are either from Venice Mestre Train station or 15 minutes later from Venice Marco Polo Airport and takes around 2.15 hrs to Cortina.

We suggest arriving at Venice Marco Polo Airport before 2 pm to catch one of the 3 daily departures.

Click Here for the booking page of the Cortina Express Bus. To book your ticket with an airport pick up, enter “Venezia” (Venice airport tourist bus pick up) to “Cortina D’Ampezzo”. If you spend the night in Venice before heading to Cortina, you can take a boat to get to Piazzale Roma. From there you need to hop on a bus for about 20 min to get to the main train station in Mestre, which is where the Cortina Express Bus starts. If you are having issues with making your reservation, please email us and we can provide you with a step-by-step guide to booking this transfer.

Click Here to view the timetable for Cortina Express Bus and select the “Cortina – Treviso – Venice” link. 

Another bus company option: ATVO bus

Schedules tend to run from January 1 to September 30 each year. For the Cortina Bus route, departures are available from Venice Piazzale Roma, Venice Mestre Train Station and Venice Marco Polo Airport.

Click Here for the booking page of the ATVO Bus. For the Cortina Bus route, departures are available from Venice Piazzale Roma, Venice Mestre Train Station and Venice Marco Polo Airport.  To book your ticket, enter FROM: “Aeroporto Marco Polo” OR “Mestre – Stazione FF SS.” OR “Venezia – Piazzale Roma: to “Cortina D’Ampezzo”.  If you are having issues with making your reservation, please email us and we can provide you with a step-by-step guide to booking this transfer.

Click Here to view the timetable for the ATVO Bus and select the “Venice – Mestre railway station – Venice Marco Polo Airport – Treviso – Cortina ” link.

If you arrive from different locations (Munich, Bozen / Bolzano) or if the Cortina Bus schedules do not work for you, we gladly assist you with arranging your public transport by other means.

Train Travel to Cortina: This option is a bit cumbersome because you have to make your way to the main train station in Venice, take the train to Calalzo (switch trains) and then get on a bus in Calalzo, which takes you to Cortina.

If you plan to travel by train to another European destination before or after your Cortina trip, then we suggest you travel by train to/from Venice Mestre train station by Italian Rail Services, and the Cortina Express Bus for transport to/from Cortina.

Private Shuttle: Alternatively we can arrange for a private shuttle from Venice Marco Polo Airport or  Piazzale Roma with our preferred taxi that takes about 1.5 hrs at 280-380 Euros depending on group size (1-8 passengers). We can gladly assist you in any transport arrangements or post-trip lodging reservations.

Travel to Cortina from the north (Munich to Cortina = about 7 hrs)
For your train / bus travel from Munich airport best go to the internet page of the Deutsche Bahn https://www.bahn.com/en and enter “Munich airport” for departure and “Toblach” for destination. There are two routes available and departures are about hourly. Best pick the route via Munich Ostbahnhof – Franzensfeste – Toblach which takes 6 hrs requiring 2 changes and costing around Euro 75 (2022) when travelling second class without any discounts. Driving time in a car is 4 hrs per google maps assuming clear roads. If you want to overnight you could do so in Munich, Innsbruck or Toblach / Dobbiaco. For Munich we would recommend taking the S-Bahn (subway / regional train) into town and lodge somewhere around the downtown core close to the Isartor (Medieval City Gate). If you have extra time, a small detour for an overnight in either Brixen / Bressanone or Bozen / Bolzano are really worth while.

From Toblach, take the South Tirolian public bus service http://www.sad.it/ departing in front of the train station. Enter “Toblach Bahnhof” for departure and “Cortina D’Ampezzo” for destination. Departures are roughly every two hours taking 50 minutes for the scenic ride at a cost of Euro 5.

FAQ

Do I need to sign a Release of Liability & Assumption of Risk Agreement (a.ka. liability waiver)?

Yes, you do. Mountaineering, skiing, climbing, hiking, via ferrata and all other wilderness and adventure travel activities are inherently risky with potential for injuries or even death.
It is very important to us that you are aware of those risks before you start the booking process, which includes filling out a booking form and paying a deposit.
With signing the liability waiver, you confirm that you understand the potential risks and hazards, and are willing to accept the risks, which includes giving up legal rights you may have.
This would also be the time to ask questions or address concerns before you book.
For your reference here is a link to our Liability Waiver. Our booking terms & cancellation policy with more details can be found here

Trip Details

Climate, Weather, Temperatures

The Dolomites, being on the “sunny side of the Alps” are usually blessed with better weather than other ranges in the Alps during the rock climbing season (June – mid-October). However, like anywhere in the mountains, there is also a chance to see some snow any time of year at least in the higher elevations, if a storm hits. Hence, daytime temperatures can range from -5C (23F) to 25C (77F).

Medical/Rescue and Trip Cancellation Insurance

We strongly recommend the purchase of a travel insurance package that does cover adventure travel. Common policies sold by travel agents or policies included in your credit card contract tend to exclude “mountaineering”  if you read through the fine print. We recommend an adventure travel policy on our website at http://ontopmountaineering.com/travel-insurance/  which our clients had good experiences with in the past. *NEW: we now recommend including covid-19/pandemic coverage with your insurance policy.

Can I Do It?

The dolomites offer all you can dream of, regardless if you are a beginner in alpine rock or you have been climbing for decades and want to trade leads with your guide.

1) Beginner Course 

Requires good physical fitness for spending an active day in the mountains and you should not be afraid of heights. Previous hiking and indoor climbing experience are advantageous. Objective: Follow multi-pitch climbs, lead sport climbs.

2) Advanced Course 

See under 1) plus outdoor climbing experience following routes up to grade 5.8 (French grade 5). Objective: Lead multi-pitch climbs on gear self sufficiently.

3) Climbing Camp 

See under 1) and 2) plus ability to safely lead up to grade 5.6 (V-) on multi-pitch climbs. If you sign up as a rope team of two, at least one of the partners must be a competent leader. Your guide will coach you on the climbs, helps you set up safe belays, assures route finding and steps in, if the going gets tough.

Private Guiding

As for any of our private guiding weeks, we enjoy optimal flexibility! The Dolomites offer all you can dream of, regardless if you are a beginner in alpine rock or you have been climbing for decades and want to trade leads with your guide.

Climbing Grade Conversion