The Matterhorn is one of the most famous peaks in the Alps, standing at 4,478m, towering above Zermatt in the Swiss Valais. It has been climbed first by Edward Whymper via the Hoernli Ridge in 1865.

Like Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn is one of THE classics to climb in the Alps. It is a mountain not to be underestimated, as even the 'normal' route via the Hoernli ridge requires stamina and good technical climbing skills.

Even experienced climbers should consider hiring an IFMGA qualified mountain guide for the climb.

The main season for the Matterhorn tends to be from Mid-July to Mid August, but even then summer storms can render the mountain to winter conditions, which makes the Matterhorn unclimbable for most recreational climbers.

If you don't have any prior climbing experience, we highly recommend participating in our Mont Blanc Mountaineering Course or our Haute Route Glacier Trek before considering doing a Matterhorn ascent.

Can I do it?
This is a challenging program for experienced climbers only. On both Matterhorn standard routes, it is necessary to keep to good time while climbing carefully and efficient.
You should be able to climb rock to 5.6 (UIAA grade 4) in mountaineering boots and possibly with crampons. You also need to be sure footed on your crampons while traveling along exposed ridges and slopes to 60 degrees in snow and ice.
The continuity of the technical terrain paired with long days requires excellent cardiovascular fitness, stamina and good acclimatization.

Travel to Zermatt:
The three closest international airports with road distances, train travel durations and fares:
Geneva: Car 235 km, 2.30 hrs. Train: 3.45 hrs, SFR 90 / person, almost hourly departures.
Zurich: Car 350 km, 3.30 hrs. Train: 4.5 hrs, SFR 120 / person, almost hourly departures
Milan: Car 230 km, 3 hrs. Train 4 hrs, Euro 80, almost every two hourly departures

Please note that if traveling by car, you will have to leave your car on a commercial parking lot (fees from SFR 4 to SFR 7 every 24 hrs) in the village of Tasch, located about 10 km before reaching Zermatt. From there, you have to either travel by taxi or train (SFR 8, departures usually every 20 minutes during the day).

Meeting Point:
To be arranged with each client individually, commonly at breakfast on the first day at our Hotel in Zermatt.

Climate, Weather, Temperatures:
High season for all mountaineering in the western Alps is from the beginning of July to mid-September.

Understandably, most aspiring Matterhorn climbers worry about the chances of catching a bad weather day for their ascent. Here are some hard facts to help you assess your chances from the Meteo Swiss statistics for Zermatt (Averages from 1961 - 1991):

The Matterhorn climb requires relatively dry conditions and quite commonly the most reliable period to catch good conditions on the mountain is mid-July to Mid August, but we have also seen seasons where the Matterhorn was only in climbable condition for 2 weeks - if even that! While September appears to be drier, new snow often lingers longer due to the colder temps.

Day time temperatures can vary between 30C (86F) in the valleys to -10C (14F) on clear mornings, when we start our day from the hut.