Ice Climbing Intro Courses

Canadian Rockies / Canmore, Banff, Lake Louise or Icefields Parkway-based

Waterfall Ice Climbing Courses for Novices, small group sizes and flexible dates.

Ice Climbing Intro Courses Highlights

  • Best ice climbing in North America
  • Most reliable ice conditions
  • Few crowds
  • Many climbs with short approaches
  • Excellent beginner/practise climbs

The Canadian Rockies and especially the area around Canmore, Banff and Lake Louise may well be the best place on earth for ice climbing on frozen waterfalls: A staggering amount of ice climbing routes and training areas with easy access, reliably cold winters and the beauty of Banff National Park…..we can’t think of a better place.

For our scheduled introduction to ice climbing courses, we base ourselves in either Banff or Canmore. A short drive and a walk anywhere from ten to 40 minutes opens up a wealth of terrain – from easy top ropes for beginner ice climbers to the multi pitch ice climbing classics! For custom ice climbing courses and private ice guiding, we can also base ourselves in Lake Louise (about 50 minutes drive from Canmore in the heart of Banff National Park), in Field, BC or Golden, BC or in Rampart Creek Hostel (1.45 hrs from Canmore towards Jasper). This gives us even quicker access to some of the ice climbs in Banff and Yoho National Park around Lake Louise or the Icefield Parkway.

We are a small guide service and we pride ourselves of providing a very personalized service since 1995! Our scheduled ice climbing courses are small (maximum of 5 participants) but usually most departures run with only 3 or 4 guest.

We gladly also gladly assist you with trip logistics and lodging needs in the Canadian Rockies. For our ice climbing introductory courses we include the rental of technical gear. Should be short of some clothing items, we gladly help you with our rental inventory at very reasonable rates.

Itinerary

Following are some of the most popular ice climbing venues and routes in Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks plus the Alberta Provincial Parks surrounding Canmore and Banff, namely the Ghost River Wilderness and Kananaskis Country

Driving Distance from Canmore (CM) / Banff (BF) and Lake Louise(LL)

Practice and top rope Ice Climbing Areas (WI1 – WI5)

Canmore Junkyards (CM:5 min, WI2-3, 60m)
Grotto Canyon (CM:10 min, WI3-4+, 60m)
Johnston Canyon (CM: 25 min, WI2-5, 40m)
Haffner Creek (CM: 35 min, WI3-5 /mixed, 25m)
King Creek (CM 35 min, WI 2 – 4, 40m)

Easy and Moderate Multi Pitch Ice Climbing Routes(WI 3-4)

Professor Falls (CM: 15 min, WI4, 280m)
Cascade (CM: 10 min, WI3, 300m)
Trans Can Iceway (CM: 5 min, WI4+, 200m)
Moonlight, Chantilly (CM: 40 min, WI2-4, 110m)
Massey’s (LL: 20 min, WI 3-4, 140m)
Guiness Gully (LL: 20 min, WI4, 250m)
Bow Falls (LL: 20min, WI3-4, 100m)
Weeping Wall Left (LL: 40 min, WI 4, 160m)

Detail and Logistics

Meeting Point

Meet in Banff or Canmore, Alberta around 8am depending on the climb organized. If you require rental gear you can arrange for a pick up at our office in Canmore the previous day. We gladly assist you in arranging lodging and airport transfers from and to Calgary International (1 hour, 25 minutes).

Climate, Weather, Temperatures

Ice climbing requires cold weather. Be prepared and equipped for temps down to -20 C or -7F.

Services Included in the Total Price

Guiding/instruction by an IFMGA and/or ACMG certified mountain, alpine or apprentice alpine guide.

Use of group equipment (rope, ice screws, carabiners), rental of technical equipment (ice axe, harness, belay device and helmet).

Not Included / Gear Rental

Rental of mountaineering boots: CD$ 20 / person / day, via Gear Up

Guide driving expenses: No driving expenses if site is located close to Canmore / Banff or if clients can provide transport to the trail head for the guide as well. Otherwise CD$ 0.4 / km if guide meets clients at the ice climbing trail head or CD$ 0.55 / km if guide provides transport for clients too.

We will gladly quote you all-inclusive prices with lodging and air port pick up / drop off in Calgary or we can assist you in making reservations for the lodging and transport option of your choice.

Curriculum

Intro Course

  • Knots, principles of waterfall ice climbing, safety and site management,
    – ice bouldering, belays, anchors, climbing techniques,
  • lots of top roping
  • top rope and pre-protected lead climbing (i.e. “mock-leads”)
  •  ice & avalanche hazard evaluation
  •  multi-pitch as a follower.

Can I Do It?

All our courses are aimed at equipping you with all the skills necessary to eventually lead ice climbs on your own. Come prepared to walk to the climbs–anywhere from 10 minutes to 1 hour. Especially later in the season, we might need snow shoes or skis to approach some of the ice climbs.

FAQ

Do I need to sign a Release of Liability & Assumption of Risk Agreement (a.ka. liability waiver)?

Yes, you do. Mountaineering, skiing, climbing, hiking, via ferrata and all other wilderness and adventure travel activities are inherently risky with potential for injuries or even death.
It is very important to us that you are aware of those risks before you start the booking process, which includes filling out a booking form and paying a deposit.
With signing the liability waiver, you confirm that you understand the potential risks and hazards, and are willing to accept the risks, which includes giving up legal rights you may have.
This would also be the time to ask questions or address concerns before you book.
For your reference here is a link to our Liability Waiver. Our booking terms & cancellation policy with more details can be found here

Why book with us?

Flexible Dates

For our custom guiding days, we can accommodate you any time! We enjoy optimal flexibility!

Equipment use / Boot rental available at an additional cost

No hassle to get to the rental store in the morning before your Ice Climbing day.

Personal Touch

We are a small team. For any technical and terrain questions, you communicate with the owner / head guide, who does much of the guiding himself. We walk the extra mile to help you with planning your entire vacation in the Canadian Rockies, including insider advice, accommodation and airport shuttles.

Transport

We can usually arrange for you to catch a ride with the guide to get to the climbs at cost.

Booking

Please read and fill out this additional Reservation Form and FAQ.

Gear List

Winter Ice Climbing

It is essential that you do a careful job in selecting and preparing your equipment for this course.

Temperatures are typically in the teens but can easily drop to -10F to -20F and be
accompanied by high winds and blowing snow. These conditions, in combination with the long periods of inactivity required to belay a climber on a difficult pitch, can easily lead to problems of hypothermia or frostbite.

We can teach climbing in difficult conditions, but we cannot teach hypothermic students. For your own safety and that of the group, please take this list seriously and come in good condition. If you have any questions about choosing your gear, feel free to call and ask for advice.

1. Technical Equipment

• Leather or plastic mountaineering boots* (Plastic boots are recommended, leather
boots can be used if warm enough and designed for waterfall ice climbing)
• Climbing helmet**
• Two technical ice tools with leashes**
• Technical Crampons suited for front pointing that fit your boots or can be easily
adjusted**
• 1 Climbing Harness, big enough to fit over bulky clothing**
• 1 Belay Device (ATC, Reverso…..)**
• 2 Locking Carabiners**
• Backpack (large enough for spare clothes, lunch, flask and gear)

All items marked ‘*’ can be rented from a rental shop locally.
All items marked ‘**’ can be provided by OnTop.
Please bring your own equipment if you have it.

2. Clothing

We suggest using the ‘layer system’: Light technical clothing that doesn’t take much space in your backpack and dries quickly if sweaty or wet.
Layers can be put on and taken off fast if weather conditions change during the day.

• Wind and waterproof shell jacket with hood (Gore Tex or similar)
• Wind and waterproof over pants with side zippers (Gore Tex or similar)
• Mountaineering pants (Schoeller or similar fabric)
• Down jacket or vest (optional for belaying)
• Fleece or heavy jacket
• 2nd layer: Medium weight fleece sweater
• 2nd layer: Very light fleece pants or expedition weight long underwear
• Long underwear or running tights (e.g. Capilene or polypro)
• Undershirt – preferably long sleeves (e.g. Capilene or polypro)
• Warm socks for mountaineering boots (wool/synthetic outers)
• Lighter socks (thin liner for mountaineering boots)
• Warm hat, covering your ears and fitting under helmet
• Lightweight gloves (fleece)
• Warm, waterproof pair of gloves, preferable two pairs
• Gaiters (preferably knee length)
• Neck tube (optional)

3. Other Items

• Sun glasses with high quality UV protection
• Sun screen and lip protection
• Water bottle, preferably insulated, minimum volume: 1 liter
• Thermos (optional) – hot tea, cocoa or soup
• Head lamp with spare batteries and bulb for long climbs that require early starts
• Blister kit (optional)
• Snacks (candy bars, dried fruit, sandwiches, nuts, etc.) High energy food is needed!
• Personal items (prescription medicine, extra contact lenses and maintenance
equipment, extra pair of prescription glasses, etc.)
• Pocket knife or leatherman (optional)
• Zip-lock bag for wallet and other documents to keep them dry (recommended)
• Camera, spare films, batteries (optional)
• Compass, maps and GPS optional

GROUP SIZES
Client / Guides

3 – 5 participants / course

TRIP INFO LINKS
DIFFICULTY:
Ice Climbing Intro Courses

Novice or minimal previous experience
Small Groups

Ice Climbing Intro Courses
2023-24 DATES

With a minimum of 3 participants, we can open courses at your preferred dates.
For groups with fewer than 3 participants, we can confirm your preferred dates for a Premium of CA$105.

2 Days
Intro Ice Course:
– Dec 2 – 3*
– Dec 9 – 10*
– Dec 16 – 17*
– Dec 21 – 22**
– Dec 23 – 24
– Dec 29 – 30
– Jan 09 – 10**
– Jan 13 – 14*
– Jan 20 – 21*
– Jan 27 – 28*
– Feb 3 – 4*
– Feb 10 – 11*
– Feb 17 – 18*
– Feb 24 – 25*
– Mar 2 – 3*
– Mar 9 – 10*
– Mar 16 – 17*
– Mar 23 – 24*
– Mar 30 – 31*
* = Weekend
** = Can be combined with advanced course

Ice Climbing Intro Courses
PRICES

CA$ 450 + 5% GST per person

On request, we can quote you in your preferred currency

Included:

  • 2 days guide and rental of technical equipment.


Not Included, but can be added:

  • CA$ 20 / day mountaineering boot rental
  • CAD$ 0.60 / km if guide provides transport.